![]() Any annuals that have collapsed should be removed. ![]() The longer you leave them, the smellier they will get. These include succulents, Agaves, tropical plants and herbaceous perennials. * Exception: Plants that have gone to “mush” may be removed or trimmed back. Be sure to make the cut in the appropriate place to avoid insect and disease entry into the tree.) (It is ok to prune broken branches, of course. *DO NOT prune plants or remove plants until you have determined the extent of injury. It is more important to know what NOT to do after a freeze! Location and species play a factor in freeze damage, but I would expect the root damage to most plants in pots to be extensive. Ground soil usually provides enough insulation to moderate temperatures in case of a freeze, especially if it is moist, but if above ground in a pot or raised bed, this is not the case. * Plants in pots and raised beds will be more likely to have root damage or death from freezing temperatures than those planted in the ground. Plants that have begun to “emerge” in early spring with new growth will be more susceptible to cold damage. Central Texas has highly variable winter temperatures, which makes it difficult for many species to enter dormancy. * Timing of the freeze: Early freezes, before the plants have had a chance to “harden-off” properly, will affect plants more than those that have been receiving a gradual “hardening-off” and have become acclimated to the cold. Consult the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for the most accurate information on low temperature tolerance. Determine the cold tolerance Zone of the specific species to see if their cold tolerance was exceeded. * Species of Plant: Cold temperature tolerance varies widely between species. Understory plants are more protected and may have less injury. * Trees and plants that are not protected by surrounding trees and plants, but stand alone, will be more sensitive to cold injury. New flushes of growth are likely to be affected. * Age of plant and stage of growth: Young, recently planted trees and plants are more sensitive to cold injury. * Duration: The more prolonged a freeze, the greater the potential for injury. * Well-hydrated plants are usually more tolerant of cold, as moist soils have a higher heat capacity than dry soils. ![]() With no snow or ice, the cold temperatures can kill the crown of the plant, especially on lawn grasses, as air temperature is colder than snow or ice temperature. Most of us had ice and snow before the bitter cold. * Snow and ice coverage of lawns, soil and plants does have an insulating effect if it happens BEFORE the freeze. * Low-lying areas are subject to colder temperatures than adjacent higher areas. A north-facing slope is considerably more susceptible to winter injury, as snow and ice will be slower to melt and the ground will be slower to heat up. That is why we recommend planting “marginally winter-hardy” plants on the S-SW side of the house. Plants located on a south or southeast exposure may receive some protection from severe cold. Wind may also play a part in winter damage, and most of our winter wind in Central Texas comes from the NW. * Exposure: Plants on the north or northwest side of a structure will be the most exposed to the cold. So, what are the things that can influence whether a plant will survive a severe cold event? Try to get used to the “ugly landscape”, as we really don’t have a choice! I know it is difficult to have patience, but because there are so many factors that can influence how a plant might be affected, that is exactly what we will have to do. You will hear me repeat this, I am certain, but “time will tell”. Unfortunately, it is too early to tell in most cases. I am sure everyone is anxious to know what damage the extreme cold temperatures have done to our landscapes.
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